A journey to the east

Something that I might have in common with many of my fellow Americans could be just how little I knew about Romania before finally making the journey to find out for myself.  Far across the globe and around fifteen hours in the air, my trip was an exhausting one but nevertheless one I was happy to repeat again and again as I felt myself called back to Romania and her truly unique beauty.  

At present, I have visited the country a total of three times so far with my stays lasting about three weeks.  While I am happy to return home at the end of it all, I always leave with the feeling that it just wasn’t quite enough time to satisfy my ever-growing interest in Romania.  Throughout these travels, I visited cities such as Bucharest, Cluj-Napoca, and Brasov to name a few, took in breathtaking winter scenery in the Carpathian Mountains, and even celebrated my first Christmas away from America.  I certainly cannot claim to understand what it means to be Romanian but I do feel that I’ve spent enough time in this country and among her people in order to develop a strong affection for them and their culture.

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A Strong Connection to the Past:

If you’re anything like me, an American with an interest in history and raised on sword and sorcery media, then you may find Romania to be a plethora of magnificent imagery that can usually only be found in Hollywood depictions of the Medieval period.  I spent much of my time there in a state of awe at the castles, strongholds, citadels, and villages that serve as monuments to Romania’s rich history and a testament to how far her people have come while remaining grounded in their cultural heritage. 

While touring the country, I enjoyed the privilege of visiting the citadels of Rasnov and Sighisoara and was amazed at witnessing such authentic preservations of Medieval life.  My amazement only continued while walking through the grand, towering castles of Matei Corvin, Peles, and Bran where I felt the echoes of history in every stone around me.  As my interest grew, I was able to further explore Romania through visits to the multitude of museums.  There, I could develop a deeper appreciation for many aspects of Romanian culture that have survived well into the modern day.

In addition to castles, Romania is also home to some of the most magnificent Medieval churches that I have ever laid eyes on.  For travelers of a religious nature, it may even be a place that holds considerable spiritual value as one looks over such beautiful structures as the St. Mihail Cathedral in Cluj, the Black Church in Brasov, and the tiny church in the old city of Bucharest; three in particular that I was lucky enough to visit.

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A Taste of Romanian Flavor:

My affection for Romania does not stop with their history but rather extends into my favorite part of any nation’s culture; the food.  Growing up on Italian-American cooking and having traveled around much of Western Europe, I considered myself to be a bit of a gourmet with a sophisticated palette.  I discovered that no amount of exposure to supposedly authentic European cooking could prepare me for what awaited at a Romanian dinner table.  Having visited in the Winter months, I quickly arrived at the conclusion that sarmale is my new favorite food and has remained so ever since my first time tasting it.  There isn’t enough time in the day or space in this article to list all of the foods I tried, but suffice to say that excluding one or two of the more intensely exotic and traditional dishes, I am absolutely in love with Romanian cooking.  The food might be a bit on the heavier side, but you’ll need all the fuel you can get for all the walking in between restaurants as you scramble to try all the meats, cheeses, and pastries that make up just a small part of the full menu.

Being a bit of a sophistocrat, I tend to enjoy a glass of wine with dinner and there’s no better time to discover new favorites than a trip to Eastern Europe.  I’m afraid I can’t recall the names of everything that I tried, but the Romanian and Moldovan wines that were offered always paired wonderfully well with every meal.  Furthermore, I was led to discover a wonderful variety of exotic drinks such as palinka (an intensely strong fruit brandy), and samaro (a sweet, nutty liqueur), both of which I would give almost anything to be made easily available in the United States.

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A Night Out On The Town:

Good drinks usually means good night life, and Romania has more than enough to offer in the way of fun to be had during a night out on the town.  As well as restaurants, the cities can boast plenty of clubs, bars, and venues to catch all kinds of musical acts from jazz fusion to heavy metal and everything else in between.  

These abundant night spots are of course the perfect places to sample some of Romania’s native beers, many of which are robust and brimming with flavor, much like their cuisine.  Hookah lounges can offer a relaxing environment where one can smoke alone in peace or among a group of friends with the air smelling like the various flavors available for the pipes.  Those like me who need a few caffeinated kicks throughout the day will find more than a few charming places to enjoy a strong cup of coffee and a warm, delicious pastry like a proper European while wondering just how such a foreign place can feel so much like home.

Communication is an integral part of the traveler’s experience.  The inability to do so can present a variety of inconveniences that will undoubtedly plague one’s journey, making it difficult to negotiate basic necessities such as food, transportation, and directions.  Fortunately for myself and any fellow English speakers, it was not especially difficult to come across Romanians who have command over the language.  In fact, a fairly large number of the people I spoke with (excluding the elderly and those who lived in more rural areas of the country) being more or less bilingual and easy to understand. 

With ease of communication came ease of transportation as navigating trains, taxis, and busses came with little stress.  Spending most of my time in cities, there were few places that were not accessible with a bit of walking or a quick ride on the subway which made casual exploration both easy and enjoyable.  Traveling was simple and straightforward for both domestic and international trips as Romania being a member of the European Union allowed me access to nearby countries such as Greece and Bulgaria.

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A Jingle In Your Pockets:

Money is arguably the biggest obstacle facing any traveler looking to cross vast expanses of land at a significant cost.  In addition to transportation, one must factor in various other expenses such as food, lodging, and the inevitable need for a few souvenirs to bring back home with you.  I happened to find myself in the uniquely fortuitous position of being able to enjoy a favorable exchange rate between our currencies and thus, most of my trip was blessedly inexpensive.  Because of this, I managed to spend surprisingly little money while indulging in quite a bit of luxury throughout.

When traveling in Romania, the one thing more important than money, food, and transportation would be the hospitality of its people and the warmth with which they welcomed me during my time among them.  I may have been a stranger, but never once did anyone make me feel like an outsider who was in any way unwelcome, and that was one of the key reasons why I left Romania feeling like I had found a second home. 

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Related Posts:

Cluj-Napoca, the bubbly city
Why I love Cluj-Napoca

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A Fond Farewell:

In conclusion, roughly eight weeks in Romania was barely enough time for me to fully experience even half of what the country has to offer, but nevertheless they were three of the best trips I have ever had the pleasure of taking.  The people are charming and warm, the food is exquisite, and there is beauty found in the culture and scenery that makes Romania easy to fall in love with.  As for me, I can hardly wait for my next chance to experience all of my favorite things about this beautiful country and I look forward to it all with eagerness and excitement.  Book a flight, check it out, and see for yourself.

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article by: Evan Johnson-Moore
photos by: Maarten Verspoor
(for more outstanding views from Romania, feel free to check Maarten’s youtube channel)

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